Table of Content

1. The Workroom.
2. The Model Form and Measurements.
3. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set.
4. Dart Manipulation. (Principle #1)
5. Designing with Darts (Tuck-Darts, Pleats, Flare and Gathers)
6. Stylelines.
7. Added Fullness (Principle #2).
8. Yokes, Flanges, Pin-Tucks, and Pleat Tucks.
9. Contouring (Principle #3).
10. Collars.
11. Built-up Necklines.
12. Cowls.
13. Skirts/Circles and Cascades.
14. Sleeves.
15. Kimono, Raglan, Drop Shoulder, Exaggerated Armholes.
16. Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings.
17. Plackets and Pockets.
18. Dresses without Wasteline Seams (Based on Torso Foundation).
19. Strapless Foundations and Interconstruction.
20. Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Dresses.
21. Shirts.
22. Jackets and Coats.
23. Capes and Hoods.
24. Knock-Off-Copying Ready-Made Designs.
25. Pants.
26. Knits–Stretch and Shrinkage Factors.
27. Actionwear for Dance and Exercise.
28. Swimwear
29. Introduction to Childrenswear.
30. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set: Measurement Taking, Standard Measurement Charts.
31. Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts.
32. Dresses and Jumpers.
33. Tops.
34. Pants and Jumpsuits.
35. Bodysuits, Leotards, Mailott, and Swimwear.

Salient Features

• NEW—Completely updated with modern, cutting-edge sketches and designs.
• NEW—DVD included in the back of the book.
• NEW—Ribbing added to the knit section of Chapter 27.
• NEW—More materials on children's wear and swim wear.
• Knock offs. Illustrates several methods for replacing ready made designs, i.e., rub-off, trace-off (using muslin, paper, or cellophane), use of measurements, following the grainlines, separating the garment along stitch lines, and tracing the cloth pattern shapes to paper.
• Fitting corrections—Includes fitting corrections for the basic patterns.
• A unique section on patternmaking for bias-cut garments.
• Revised drafting instructions and standard measurement charts.
• Constructed support for strapless designs—Expands upon discussion and includes an additional strapless foundation.
• Bias-cut dresses—Emphasizes bias-cut dresses that cling to the figure, as influenced by Madeline Vionnett.
• Advanced design projects—Adds one or two advanced designs to selected chapters.
• A practical introduction to patternmaking—Opens the book with discussions on the workroom, the model form and measuring techniques, and how to draft the basic pattern set.
• Complete coverage of the three steps of design patterns: dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring.
• Chapter projects—Includes a fashion sketch for each project with an analysis of the design, and focuses on pattern plot and manipulation for developing the patterns.